Why you need to dismantle your poker game (part 2 of 5): Hand attributes

Most books place starting hands into ‘categories’ that are to be played from different positions or situations [category 1, 2, and so on]. This method of separating hands into groups is alright, but far from ideal (it won’t get you into too much trouble). The problem with this method is it doesn’t allow a player to comprehend the ‘why’ behind their decisions. Starting hands have just as many nuances as any other part of the game: If you know the right questions to ask!

1. Does my hand play better heads‑up or multi‑way?
2. Is my hand position sensitive?

Heads-up or Multi-way?

The first question you need to ask yourself is this, do I want to push or pull? Pushing or pulling simply means, would you rather eliminate opponents or entice them into calling.

When you hold a heads-up hand you will hit the flop a fair amount of the time, but will be vulnerable to being out-drawn. Therefore, you want to push players out of the pot when you hold a heads-up hand. If you get a legitimate caller (or worse 2 or more) you have to tread with caution if your hand doesn’t improve further. Heads-up hands consist of: Big Aces and Unpaired face cards (although pairs play well heads-up I will leave them for later).

On the other hand, a multi‑way hand will hit the flop less often, but can stand up to a lot more action post‑flop when it does connect. So, multi-way hands are pulling hands. Unlike a heads-up hand, if you hit the flop with a multi-way hand, you welcome callers. Multi-way hands consist of: Suited Connectors, Small to Medium Pairs, and Suited Aces.

Many hands can blur the lines, falling into both categories. The hands that fall into both categories put you in a win, win situation. Since your hand will play well in either scenario, you can choose the most profitable one each time.  Hands that fall into both categories consist of: Big Suited Aces, Big Pairs, and Suited Face Cards. With these hands you have the best of both worlds.

Once you know the attributes of your hand you can form better decisions, and play them in the appropriate way. This rationale is very different of ‘what the book says to do’.

Position Sensitive

While every hand benefits from position, some hands are more sensitive to being played out of position than others. Multi-way hands tend to be more position sensitive pre‑flop  than heads-up hands, since you want to limp to entice more opponents, but you don’t know if someone will raise behind you. When you are in late position, or sometimes middle, you will know if you are going to have the correct number of opponents for your hand to be playable.

On the other hand, with a pushing hand you will be raising to shut out the field yourself, and a re‑raise by an opponent will just help your cause.

In addition to pre‑flop sensitivity, there is one factor that makes certain hands position sensitive post‑flop: Draws are much stronger when you have position. Position allows you to semi‑bluff, and use free cards. Out of position you are typically cornered into a check‑calling strategy. This makes suited connectors the ultimate late position hand; it’s sensitive both pre‑flop and post-flop. Alternatively, a hand like 44 is less position sensitive post‑flop (although it is very position sensitive pre‑flop), because you are either going to flop a set, or be folding on the flop.

Previous entries in this series:

• Part 1: Introduction to Systemantics
• Part 3: Proper use of aggression
• Part 4: Positional advantages and disadvantages
• Part 5: The importance of odds